Installation
(scroll down for troubleshooting)
Warning: use of tools and/or working with gas, electricity, or hot water under pressure can pose risks of property or bodily injury. Please read and follow instructions. Prior to work, ensure that pressure is relieved from the system and heating is turned down or off. In some cases, work or modification of equipment may void manufacturer warranty. If these instructions are not followed there is increased risk of damage to product. This device is intended for use with hot and cold water storage tanks that are operating in compliance with United States Uniform Plumbing Code 2018 or equivalent.
Installation Instructions
Make sure the tank is relieved of pressure & not actively heated. Remove the old anode, and clean the anode port threads with wire pipe-brush. If desired, at this time flush any old sediment and/or perform any bleach or hydrogen peroxide “flushes” if that is part of your plan in removing odor.
If the anode you purchased has pre-applied thread-sealant, then no teflon tape is necessary, but if no thread-sealant is present, please wrap anode threads above the leading 2 threads 8-12 times with PTFE tape or use a brushable thread-sealant.
Use only a 6-sided hex socket and hand tools (torque-wrench or ratchet) for installation. If the anode port is quite recessed, then (pictured at right) to make installation much easier you may connect the positive (red) connection from the adapter to the top of the anode before installing, and allow the wire to sit in a recess of the polymer head, after which the socket is placed over the anode, pinching the wire to it and retaining the entire assembly to the socket in a snug fit. Thus the anode with connected wire can be lowered to the recessed anode port all at once, with the electrical connection already easily accomplished.
Install anode by first reverse-threading the anode in the port using only your fingers and a socket, or socket+extension (no ratchet), so as to feel and hear when the threads are aligned and ready for engagement, which helps to prevent cross-threading. After thread alignment/start has been found, use fingers to tighten clockwise to engage the threads. After finger-tightening, use a hand-operated tool to slowly tighten to 10-16 foot-lbs of torque. Do not overtighten the anode or it could break. Pre-applied high-viscosity thread-sealant provides sealing and lubrication of the threads. It is best to tighten minimally, check for proper seal, and then tighten additionally if needed and within constraints.
Connect the positive red terminal of the adapter to the anode. Connect the remaining GND terminal assembly to any existing screw on the outside of the water tank with GND print facing outward in a visible location, then plug the adapter into a functional outlet. Anode installation is complete, and the light on the GND terminal assembly will show green when the tank is completely full of water and protective current is flowing through the circuit. The tank shroud is always electrically-bonded to the inner tank, typically at the supports under the tank & therefore forms continuity.
To ensure maximum security, please check anode tightness at 5 days post-installation and once yearly when the tank is hot but water pressure relieved and ensure it is tightened to 10-16 foot-lbs of torque. Inspect exterior of anode and water system at least once yearly for signs of leaks.
Your tank is now protected!
Thank you for choosing STOLTCO®!
Troubleshooting
GND or adapter light is off, check:
All electrical connections were appropriately made.
The outlet the adapter is plugged into is operational.
The tank is full of water, which is required to complete the circuit. Many times air will be trapped in the top of the tank until it is bled out by turning on the hot water from a faucet in the system.
If the steps above still do not show working adapter, then plug adapter into a working outlet and touch the metal of each adapter output terminal to each other, thereby completing the circuit. Green light will turn on if the adapter is working and the circuit is completed. If it is still not working, replace the adapter.
Anode metal rod bent: you may safely straighten it by hand. The anode should be straight enough so that the entire length and fitting could fit within a 3-inch diameter cylinder without touching the walls.
Cross-threaded anode: replace the anode with a new anode.
Anode leaks around threads (not to be confused with leak around terminal):
If no thread-sealant was applied: remove anode, apply sealant, and re-install.
If thread sealant was applied: ensure system is depressurized, and tighten the anode up to a maximum of 16-foot-lbs torque. If the anode is tightened while system is pressurized and if the anode were to be overtightened and break, then there will be a large volume leak under pressure and possibly at high temperature, therefore only tighten while system is depressurized.
Anode leaks around metal terminal, within top “cup” portion: failed internal seal. Replace anode.
Polymer anode broke while in anode port: Drill a hole through the anode large enough for a hacksaw blade (typically 1/2-inch). Then use the hacksaw by hand to saw 2 or 3 slits in the sidewall of the anode head, thereby relieving radial pressures - take care not to saw into the metal threads of the water tank. After sawing, use a “plastic nipple extractor” to remove the anode head. If any anode remnants are left in the tank, they will sink to the bottom, similar to debris caused by sacrificial anodes, and are not expected to rise nor breakdown.
Polymer anode hex stripped due to use of 12-point socket: Use a “bolt extractor” of size approximately 1-1/16-inch, or 27mm to remove, or if necessary, the nipple-extractor method listed prior.
For further assistance please contact us with a full description of the issue. Thanks!
